Across the Middle East, scent has never merely been about adornment. It’s by extension, a sense of self, a tool for healing, remembrance and connection.
In many Arab households, the day often begins with a gentle swirl of Bukhoor or a dab of Attar behind the ear or on the wrists – rituals passed down through generations, reminding you of the rich culture that envelops you and all those before you. This isn’t just fragrance. It’s language.
In ancient civilisations, fragrance was sacred. Frankincense and myrrh were traded like gold across the Arabian Peninsula, burned in temples and used in religious ceremonies. Islamic history refers to musk as a scent of great importance, while oud, distilled from the wood of the Aquilaria tree, has become a cornerstone of Gulf perfumery. Furthermore, cleanliness and fragrance are closely tied, and applying scent holds a positive connotation within religious history.
Today, the practice continues in a modern form. In boutiques across the region, artisan perfumers hand-blend oils and woods, while luxury brands reinterpret classic Middle Eastern notes into contemporary bottles. At the same time, a new generation of perfume houses is reconnecting with tradition in deeply intentional ways.
One such brand is Light of Sakina (@lightofsakina), a women-led fragrance house inspired by the sacredness of scent. “Scent is not just perfume,” says Naila Rahim, the brand’s founder.
It is a healer, a guide, a traveller that moves across time, space and memory.
– Naila Rahim
Through attars, oils and eau de parfums rooted in oud, rose, sandalwood and amber, the brand invites wearers to use fragrance not just as an accessory, but as a ritual – a quiet conversation with the self.
Modern science echoes this ancient wisdom. According to a 2019 study in Frontiers in Behavioural Neuroscience, scent bypasses the usual pathways in the brain and goes directly to the limbic system, which governs memory and emotion. This explains why a whiff of burning oud can transport you to a family majlis back home, or why a specific blend of jasmine and musk may stir longing or comfort. As stated, perfume might be sprayed onto skin, but it’s more woven into the emotional fabric of our lives.
In the Arab world, gifting fragrance is also a deeply personal act. It’s a way of saying “I see you,” of offering protection, warmth, or even apology. Weddings, births, and religious celebrations are often marked with the lighting of Bukhoor, the exchange of oils, or a shared scent passed from one hand to another. (It’s true. This writer is currently looking at her stack of gifted Attars right now.)
So why do certain scents draw us in, while others repel? According to Light of Sakina, “The scent chooses you, just as your inner self chooses the scent.” Whether it’s a trail of amber that brings peace or a floral blend that stirs longing, the fragrances we gravitate toward often mirror emotions we’re yet to name fully.
As the region’s perfume market continues to flourish – expected to reach $4.4 billion by 2032, according to Future Market Insights – it’s clear that this isn’t just a trend, but a return. A return to self. To memory. To the quiet language that scent has always spoken.
So if you fluently speak Scent, or are someone who wants to get started, check out KHAMSA’s picks!
Light Of Sakina – Afrah perfume oil
Afrah is a soft, floral perfume oil that blends jasmine, orange blossom, ylang ylang, and musk for a scent that feels warm, comforting, and quietly joyful. It’s light enough for daytime with a gentle essence.
Find it here.
Light Of Sakina – MIZLA Bakhoor Set
This fills your space with a soft, sweet mix of jasmine, lily, and lychee. Touches of musk and bergamot add warmth, making it feel peaceful, comforting, and full of light.
Find it here.
Light Of Sakina – Safaa Gift Set
This is a peaceful and grounding fragrance, perfect for moments of reflection or prayer. Blending soft lavender with rich oud and warm amber, it helps create a sense of stillness, clarity, and spiritual connection.
Find it here.
