Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu has long been known for its delicate and demure designs that practically beg to be lived in. The House’s RTW FW23 collection focuses on the art of “looking” with transparent fabrics, exposed stockings, and Emma Corrin wearing nothing but underwear; the line blurs between outerwear and undergarments.

Stylish comfort awaits you with Miu Miu’s latest collection. It includes the brand’s much sought-after bags and offers a range of irresistibly cushy essentials that perfectly capture the effortless yet chic vibe that oozes out of the House.

The Soundtrack

The soundtrack was curated by Frédéric Sanchez – a sound artist extraordinaire whose work has become synonymous with the fashion industry’s most influential designers. Since the late 80s, he has curated soundscapes or as he calls them, “oral tableaus,” for fashion houses like Prada, Miu Miu, Calvin Klein, and Jean Paul Gaultier, to name a few. Sanchez seamlessly blends music from different genres, like jazz and hip hop, with his unique twist to create bespoke sound environments that perfectly accompany any fashion show.

The playlist for the show was a fusion of musical genres that one wouldn’t expect to work together, but it did with ease. With free jazz by Flow Trio to techno by Raul Pocketson, Translate & Pulsto, and Crennwiick, to the smooth R&B/Soul vibes of Huud Nerd, the soundtrack perfectly contrasted and complemented the collection.

The Set Design

The set design doesn’t challenge the concept of a catwalk but rather elevates it to the level of watching an art performance in a modern museum – remarkably appropriate to the collection. Adding to the experience was an installation by South Korean artist Geumhyung Jeong, whose performance-based pieces are nothing short of mesmerizing. Her work, which investigates the connection between her body and the garments she wears, perfectly complements the Miu Miu collection.

The Face

Courtesy of Miu Miu

There was no doubt that Hollywood’s hot talent pool was evident in this season’s runway. Mia Goth, the rising star who’s quickly becoming Gen Z’s scream queen, made a stunning appearance as the opening model for the show.

The Palette

The latest collection from Miu Miu managed to strike the perfect balance between playful and polished, thanks to a clever mix of understated tones and surprising details. The collection’s sober palette of beige, grey, and black, emphasising muted tones and neutrals, manages to have fun without being obnoxious. In a harmonious progression of the colours’ vibrancy, the collection brought together delightful contrasts of purple, pink, and green in various shades.

Tailoring & Details

Each collection piece had its unique twist, from floral embellishments to cutouts that added an extra layer of fun and intrigue. Despite the whimsical touches, the collection stayed within its roots as a sophisticated and polished line. Despite some looks resembling corporate attire on the run, other looks seamlessly blended formal elements with playful accents appropriate for a night out. The overall effect was business at the top and party at the bottom.

Notes on Codes

As seen in the early 2000s references above, Miu Miu’s fashion DNA is like a party girl with a wink and a nod to retro influences. The brand’s sensual sheer looks, retro influencers, super-short A-line dresses with stockings, and sequins were all present and accounted for in the FW23 collection. At Miu Miu, embellishments reign supreme, with sequins, crystals, and pearls adding texture and visual interest to many designs.

All these elements worked together to make the FW23 collection a delightful party for the senses while ensuring that this isn’t just about fun and games, as Miu Miu can talk business too.

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Final Note

The Miu Miu girl is a force to be reckoned with. She’s always on the go, with places to be and people to see. Her hair may not be perfect, but she wears it confidently. She’s the type of girl who’s probably an archival researcher with fierce intellect. She’s sassy, she’s classy, and she’s got a hint of rebellion that keeps everyone on their toes. The Miu Miu girl embodied a modern-day definition of an unconventional edge. Despite most of the silhouettes making a runway debut 15-20 years ago, the collection has everything the fashion industry needs in its current sea of gimmicks.

We are reminded that a bit of mess is okay, so go ahead and be a little bit of a Miu Miu girl.

Rand Al-Hadethi is an art, culture, and fashion writer who approaches all her creative endeavours with a penchant for storytelling. She explores the intersection of fashion, culture, and society and sheds light on talent and cultural movements across the Middle East and the world. Rand also publishes a bi-monthly themed substack newsletter called WebWeaver™. To reach Rand, email her at rand@khamsa5.com or follow her on social media @rundoozz.
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