The most talented designers are subtle yet impactful. Daniel Rosberry is one of these designers. While you can very much sense the Schiaparelli-ness that we got used to seeing in the past few seasons, Rosberry added a bit of a chaotic twist to this collection – especially with styling. Even though the silhouettes remain impactful and demand attention, some looks seem more comfortable.
“We live and create fashion in a time when creativity, internet-breaks, and celebrity gags come at us weekly, daily and now, by the hour. Some of these aren’t even created by human hands or minds. Most all of them are forgotten by tomorrow,” Roseberry said. “It’s why I wanted this collection to be aggressively, unmistakably human — and to be rooted in artistic references that feel timeless. To dress, decorate, but most importantly, to create, is as primitive as any instinct we have.”
For his latest couture collection, Roseberry finds sparks of spontaneity and sensuality in his meticulously coordinated world. As Roseberry referenced the typical Schiaparelli house codes for this collection, he also examined the house’s historical association with artists. Lucian Freud’s paint-splattered studio inspired the colourful chiffon dress with a mosaic of sequins. The vibrant Yves Klein blue was a striking addition to the collection, from the skirt to the body paint and the wooden jewellery.
The magnificence of Rosberry’s Schiaparelli is that he allows himself to explore surrealism in fashion through multiple approaches and can do so. The collection became “a Surrealist’s interpretation of a woman’s essential closet,” he says in his show notes. “I wanted to make an impossible wardrobe — impossible not because it’s not wearable, but because it’s so extraordinary.”
When done right, Haute couture is magical. Schiaparelli is both.