Saint Laurent’s SS24 menswear show paid tribute to the allure of androgyny in Berlin’s famed Neue Nationalgalerie – a polished marble sanctuary conceived by Mies van der Rohe in 1968, just a year before his passing. Under Vaccarello’s deft touch, the fusion of feminine and masculine elements has become synonymous with Saint Laurent’s contemporary vision. Vaccarello’s masterful manipulation of silhouettes, which embrace the contours of the body while preserving sharp angularity, exudes equal parts seductive, cutting, and romantic. The SS24 collection is a dance of fluidity and form – a symbiotic relationship between Vaccarello’s creations and the bodies that wear them.
Though not overtly provocative, the designs possess a voyeuristic quality, coaxing glimpses of skin here and there through exposed shoulders or a sheered torso. Lightness and volume play a central role throughout, as high-waisted trousers descend in pleated elegance, settling just below the ankle, while shoulders display generous proportions. The collection also incorporates traditional YSL motifs, including leopard prints and polka dots.
The evocative title of the collection — “Each Man Kills The Thing He Loves” — reflects the villainous charm of Saint Laurent’s men. Vaccarello has a flair for achieving pristine harmony where fashion-hungry youth can unravel the interplay between power and poise, tenderness and seduction.
Admittedly, Vaccarello has faced a fuss online in recent seasons for supposedly treading familiar ground, adhering to a predictable “aesthetic.” Despite this, however, his designs display a distinct style unmistakably its own. Vaccarello is acutely aware of what works and confidently maintains his course. Does stagnation loom? Undoubtedly. Yet, Saint Laurent comfortably resides on that edge for the time being.