Paris Men’s Fashion Week 2025 arrived with a quiet confidence. This summer season is defined less by spectacle and more by nuance. From Pharrell’s global diplomacy at Louis Vuitton to Jonathan Anderson’s subtle reimagining of Dior heritage, the collections echoed a world in motion yet craving calm. Craftsmanship met technology, tradition bowed to innovation, and desire found expression in restraint. This was a moment of elegance and thoughtful reinvention — the kind of fashion that invites reflection and adventure. Here’s KHAMSA‘s roundup of the names that shaped the week.
١. LOUIS VUITTON – Le Monde est à Vous
For his third collection at Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams staged a show on the rooftop of UNESCO in Paris, where diplomacy met design. A Damier-printed runway designed in collaboration with Bijoy Jain of Studio Mumbai. The collaboration set the tone for a cross-cultural vision that paid tribute to India’s dress codes and craftsmanship. Dubbed “Le Monde est à Vous” (The World is Yours), the collection fused tailored safari silhouettes, cricket jerseys, and a new “damoflage” print in a palette of earthy saffron, khaki, and ivory. Embellished trunks, turbans, and luxe monogrammed cargos signaled a shift toward ornate utility. With live music by AR Rahman and Native Voices of Resistance, the show underscored Vuitton’s message: global elegance grounded in heritage, movement, and meaning.
٢. DIOR – Jonathan Anderson’s Debut
At the Hôtel des Invalides, Dior marked a new chapter as Jonathan Anderson unveiled his first menswear collection for the house. The designer, known for his sculptural work at JW Anderson and Loewe, brought a fresh irreverence to Dior’s legacy, stripping back the theatricality of past seasons. Silhouettes nodded to the maison’s archives — most notably the Bar jacket, here oversized and re-gendered — while loose cargo pants echoed couture gowns from the 1940s. The collection’s quiet provocation lay in its restraint: historical references warped into modern utility, florals stitched as whispers, and tailoring that blurred between dressing up and dressing down. Set within a space modeled on Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie, Anderson’s debut redefined heritage as a structure to twist, not preserve.
٣. HERMÈS – Summer in the City
At Hermès, Véronique Nichanian offered a study in air, light, and ease. The collection unfolded like a deep breath — technical yet sensual, refined yet grounded. Openwork leather traced clean lines across blousons and trousers, while a muted palette of putty, caramel, and mint gave way to richer tones like burgundy and vanilla. Shapes were fluid but never loose: shirt-jackets, cropped trousers, and soft parkas constructed with the precision of saddlery, but made to move. There was no spectacle here — only the subtle poetry of craftsmanship. This was summer not as a season, but as a texture: breathable, tactile, and wholly at peace with itself.
٤. SAINT LAURENT – Clinamen
Anthony Vaccarello’s latest menswear show unfolded under dry afternoon light at the Bourse de Commerce, where stillness replaced spectacle. Inspired by a generation of artists who turned desire into form — and by Yves Saint Laurent’s own 1974 retreat — the collection explored elegance through restraint. Waists were cinched, shoulders extended, and fabrics like silk and nylon floated close to the body without clinging. The palette, hushed and coastal, echoed sand, salt, and pale ochre. At the center of the space, porcelain bowls drifted in a circular basin — the Clinamen installation by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot — producing quiet collisions that mirrored the show’s mood. There were no grand gestures, only presence, held with intent.
٥. KENZO – Club Kenzo
Nigo’s Kenzo Spring-Summer 2026 collection played with youthful energy and cross-cultural dialogue. Set at the iconic Maxim’s, the show celebrated a carefree summer romance where the “Kenzo Guy” and “Kenzo Girl” borrow styles from one another in a playful blurring of lines. Italian tailoring met vibrant satin dinner jackets, while militaria-inspired pieces were updated with mother-of-pearl buttons and delicate rose prints—a nod to founder Kenzo Takada. The ongoing story of tiger-striped bunnies, introduced last season, continued through whimsical accessories and graphic belts, injecting punk attitude and a lived-in sensibility into the mix.
٦. AMIRI – Chateau AMIRI
Mike Amiri’s Spring-Summer 2026 collection transported the runway to a sunlit, imaginary hotel — the Chateau AMIRI — a crossroads of culture and characters. Inspired by Wes Lang’s American history artworks created at the Chateau Marmont, the collection blended laid-back luxury with refined tailoring. Fluid silhouettes echoed the late ’70s California coast, balancing languid pajamas and robes with sharp suiting. Embroidered birds and beaded foliage enhanced the narrative, weaving nature with crafted opulence. The palette favored sun-bleached hues: mint, raspberry, pale blue, and gold. It was a vivid portrait of escapism, where the intimate and the glamorous coexisted effortlessly.
٧. JACQUEMUS – Le Paysan
Simon Porte Jacquemus’s Le Paysan continued his poetic exploration of rural life and its understated beauty. The collection favored simple, loose shapes, earthy tones, and natural fabrics, evoking the tactile pleasures of countryside living. There was a gentle romance in the unpretentious styling — oversized knits, flowing shirts, and soft linens — offering a quiet antidote to city haste. It was an ode to a slower pace and grounded identity, rendered with Jacquemus’s signature lightness and charm.
