Kim Jones’ latest collection featured several references to Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the granddaughter of founders Adele and Edoardo. Besides being a fifth-generation Fendi, she developed Fendi’s first high-jewellery line and still works with Kim on the house’s jewellery. “The first day that Delfina walked into work, she was wearing blue and brown, and I thought she looked so great,” says Jones. “There’s a chicness but a perversity to the way she twists Fendi, which is what I love.”
The collection also reiterates Karl Lagerfeld’s sketches for today’s Fendi wearer and adds the graphic motifs the late designer established as part of the Italian house’s DNA.
During the show, two songs played, Master Plan and Toxic Spread (which sound like a corporate villain movie soundtrack), produced by Adam, Dan Skinner, and Dave James. The Skinner brothers are UK-based producers who work mainly in film and television score productions; this is evident in the show’s brooding soundscape.
The Set Design
If Ex-Machina and Nocturnal Animals had a love child (said in every good way possible), it would be this Fendi show. The scene appeared dreamlike yet mechanical and while the atmosphere was slightly harsh, the models in dainty tailoring and silhouettes contrasted beautifully with it. As they walked through the laser light show, it was almost like the entire show was a part of a larger machine, thanks to the suspenseful soundtrack.
While there was plenty of monochrome in the collection, the collection varied with different textures and sometimes added bold or soft contrasts to each outfit. Pinks and reds provided a dopamine-inducing addition to the palette, while beige provided a grounding softness.
Tailoring & Details
A remarkable menswear designer, Jones merged menswear styles and materials with sultry and sophisticated feminine ensembles for the perfect modern wardrobe. Skirts over pants have been inching themselves into the fashion zeitgeist for the past few years as the Y2K trend resurges; however, Jones morphed that concept into a poised uniform outfit. And amidst the business feel of the collection, a couple of the dresses were complemented by a romantic trail of organza.
A discreet sense of power permeates the collection; the Fendi woman enters the room with purpose.
Several of the garments appeared imposing and unflattering on the models. Regardless of whether the intention was to create stiffness with particular looks, it was deemed off-balance in certain areas.
Notes on Codes
Fendi has always been known for its lavish and indulgent use of fur and leather in its designs, and this collection continues the tradition (Karl Lagerfeld once said, “Fur is Fendi and Fendi is Fur”). Aside from being stunning, the fur coats matched the collection’s sleekness with the slim fit and subtle detailing. As always, the double F – “Fun Fur” – was visible in boots, bags, and earrings.
This season, the iconic Baguette got two new updates by going bigger and introducing a leather version of the nylon design, the Baguette Multipocket.
KHAMSA’S Top Five Looks
KHAMSA’S Top Four Accessories
Although I had trouble figuring out what to say about this collection, I couldn’t deny my admiration for it and how it drew me in. Although layered and deconstructed, the collection holds a sense of ease and simplicity that is far from simplistic. During this show, one message stood out: A trench coat, pencil skirt, and decent knit are no-nonsense staples that will last you a lifetime. That may be what makes the collection so pleasant – you don’t have to think about what to wear. It’s Ready to Wear right in front of you. As far as practical luxury is concerned this season, Kim Jones knew what he was doing.