In a bold departure from conventions, Jonathan Anderson reveals LOEWE’s Men’s Fall Winter 2024 collection, drawing inspiration from intellectually stirring notions of masculinity shaped by Richard Hawkins and the prevailing obsession with celebrity culture. Through the dynamic medium of collage, Anderson disrupts the constraints of formality, ushering in a season rich with captivating personas. Within this domain dedicated to the exploration of masculinity and the male gaze, Anderson presents yet another impactful collection, infused with hints of grunge and high-school geek aesthetics.
Amidst the gathering of the global fashion scene at Quai Henri IV in the beautiful Garde Républicaine, under the sunny sky of Paris, a star-studded front row comes to life. The lineup includes a diverse array of handsome celebrities, such as Andrew Garfield, Zayn Malik, Callum Turner, Jamie Dornan, Kit Connor, and Josh O’Connor, amongst others.
Themes & Motifs
The collection kicks off with a playful ensemble featuring hoodies, low-slung pants, and school-style shoes. The tone is set by a diverse range of colors and materials. Deviating from the previous season’s emphasis on tweed tailoring, the designer takes a different route, pairing retro ski sweaters with vibrant track pants or camp shirts adorned in tablecloth checks, all matched with oversized cargo pants.
Key themes include a school boy aesthetic evident in the pants and sweaters, evoking a distinctly American cool kid vibe. The shoes follow suit, with a Vans-style, casually unclosed design in pastel colors.
Standout elements in the collection are the motifs, inspired by Richard Hawkins’ artworks, particularly noticeable in the pants and coats. They are vivid, well-coordinated, and clearly make a statement within the overall collection.
LOEWE opted for the Garde Républicaine as the venue for this season’s show. Within the striking space, the show venue takes the form of a white cube adorned with large screens on the walls, reminiscent of stained glass windows. Drawing inspiration from the 1960s LOEWE window designs by José Pérez de Rozas, the visionary behind LOEWE’s iconic window displays for over 30 years, Hawkins embarks on a creative journey. Using these designs as a foundation, Hawkins crafts a series of 12 video collages.
These collages intricately layer new footage and imagery featuring LOEWE brand ambassadors and internet personalities with elements sourced from his characteristically diverse range of inspirations.
In summary, LOEWE’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection adopts a clear and distinct approach, as Jonathan Anderson injects a lively, youthful, and enjoyable atmosphere onto the runway. The seamless integration of Hawkins’ artworks adds a noteworthy layer, effortlessly fusing fashion with ongoing art dialogues and the contemporary art world.
As LOEWE maintains its prominent standing in the fashion landscape, the brand consistently showcases inventiveness, originality, and vitality that uniquely define its identity. The enduring playful spirit of LOEWE remains as vibrant as ever, solidifying its continued impact on the fashion scene.