Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada’s latest Prada collection examines beauty in unexpected places, particularly in uniforms that represent care, such as those worn by nurses. The collection explores familiarity and exceptionality, allowing us to see regular garments through a refined lens. The collection celebrates everyday garments often seen as unimportant or unconsidered while incorporating occasional pieces, such as a white satin skirt decorated with floral embellishments.

The Soundtrack

The music played at the Prada show takes the audience on a journey that transitions from a sense of ominous foreboding to a joyful and uplifting finale. The show opens with layers of television buzz sounds that create a cynical dystopian feeling, but this mood is soon interrupted by Roxy Music’s “In Every Dream Home a Heartache,” followed by Vangelis’ “Spiral,” and The Kinks’ “I Go to Sleep.” The show concludes on a celebratory note with the classic Blue Danube Waltz.

The musical journey aligns perfectly with the collection, especially as the models walk down the runway in a Prada Pillow Fit, while both Roxy Music and The Kinks’ songs allude to sleeping and dreaming, adding a whimsical feel. Although the music begins on an eerie note, it gradually becomes more hopeful as the show progresses, mirroring the evolution of the set design.

The Set Design

For the Fall show, OMA (the architecture and urbanism firm that’s a serial Prada collaborator) created a moving ceiling that alternately amplifies and reduces the room’s dimension. The movement of the orange pillars, coupled with the display of fresh lilies, prompts a reconsideration of the space and the figures within it while also adding an element of surprise and wonder to the show, reflecting the theme of rediscovering beauty.

With all these fresh flowers, the rooms must’ve smelled like a delightful spring.

The Palette

The collection’s colour palette is both calm and warm, creating a comforting atmosphere for the viewer. The sunshine yellow, blush pink, and cherry red add brightness to the otherwise muted tones. The colours chosen for the collection are well-suited for fall, and the shades complement each other seamlessly. The highly interchangeable nature of the palette adds value to the uniform approach throughout the collection.

The Face

Credit: Vogue Runway

Gigi Hadid, who’s always been a Prada girl, sported feathery lashes in pastel pink as she was blooming on the catwalk.

Tailoring & Details

The everyday garments made for a perfect backdrop as they were brought to life by the exaggerated collars and stunning floral applique. Even a few tops and dresses featured bow ties that resembled blooming roses. The geometric bags, embossed with delicate flowers, were a sight to behold, adding to the romantic nature of the collection.

Detours

What can we say? None. The collection delivered what Prada does best.

Notes on Codes

Prada has long been recognized for its iconic use of nylon, graphic prints, bold colours, and geometric shapes. However, these signature elements have taken a subtle turn in this collection, playing a game of hide and seek with the audience. Prada has always embraced the “ugly” and created chic wear; this collection is no different by examining uniforms while maintaining the brand’s aesthetic values. The collection showcased hints of bold colours, acting as palette accents in the accessories, while the nylon appeared in the form of pillow skirts, dresses, and more. The geometric shapes of the bags provided the sleek Prada feel.

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Final note

This collection exudes grace and tranquillity with a harmonious, subtle, and finely tuned presentation. The intricate floral details of each piece perfectly complement the sophisticated and comfortable feel of the collection, and the carefully chosen fabrics add a delicate lustre that elevates the pieces. As a whole, this collection is a reflection of modern sophistication, imbued with a sense of effortless beauty. It’s a collection you’d almost wear anywhere, everyday – as intended.

Rand Al-Hadethi is an art, culture, and fashion writer who approaches all her creative endeavours with a penchant for storytelling. She explores the intersection of fashion, culture, and society and sheds light on talent and cultural movements across the Middle East and the world. Rand also publishes a bi-monthly themed substack newsletter called WebWeaver™. To reach Rand, email her at rand@khamsa5.com or follow her on social media @rundoozz.
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