In the Oasi lab, a reshaping of matter and a re-mattering of shapes happens, allowing for an organic evolution that grows and morphs season after season. Cashmere is the chosen fibre in wintertime: because of its versatility, preciousness, traceability; because of its proclivity to be turned into a wide array of textures and surfaces. Items, too, evolve. They keep undergoing a deep structural rethinking that, by grouping elements into four categories, does away with needless distinctions while expanding the possibilities of use and the meaning of each item. Top, bottoms, underpinnings, and accessories are the working ZEGNA categories. The collection is an open system, made of elements that can be layered and combined in many ways, allowing the individual attitude of the wearer to come through in the form of personal styling.
An idea of transformation comes forward, from matter to colour, while freedom and instinct gain traction as forces that mould style, effortlessly. Shapes evolve from existing ones, are superimposed, grow generous and practical pockets, loose sleeves, or collars, gain tabs, closures, drawstrings. Multi-purposeless is solved by way of studious editing and keen detailing in items that allow multiple uses. Coats with enveloping volumes, sonic welded duvets, blousons, vests. Double collared blazers, collarless anoraks, the new ‘Il Conte’ jacket and generous trousers. Knitted tops and bottoms have both presence and performance. Overshirts and boxy jackets with studiously placed pockets suggest not only functionality, but also a variety of body postures and attitudes. Ribbed and padded jumpers are meant as outerwear. Long ribbed gloves, bridgeless glasses, round toed boots with ton sur ton rubber soles, the newly created Triple Stitch TM ‘Monte’ and soft satchels and neatly designed handbags complete the looks.
“As both a physical place and a mindset, Oasi Zegna, the centre of our world, is a veritable lab: a place in which we can tirelessly explore new fabrications, develop new forms, devise forward-looking clothing solutions suited for the now. Here, we experiment with the most exquisite natural fibres and dyes, while decoding functions and recoding lines to create an open system of elements that frees personal interpretation. We do so in a constant lookout for beauty and excellence with a responsible commitment towards the environment, following a wholesome idea of fashion as transformation: of fabrics, colours, silhouettes.”– Alessandro Sartori, ZEGNA Artistic Director.
Layering is both a solution and an attitude. The sum of items is highlighted by the range of colours, which in turn are not one-dimensional, but a superimposition of hues: notes of bianco, ghiaccio, burro, tones of asfalto, granito, nero opaco, foliage brown and blu inchiostro, bursts of alba pink, are worked both in monochromatic amalgamations and vibrant mixes. Textures add a tactile dimension: multi mélange Shetland/cashmere, pure cashmere beaver, washed panno, intarsia panno, 3D workwear panno, cashmere backed plongè leather, pure cashmere terry, raw denim. An elongated damier motif rhythmically moves over the surfaces.
The show is accompanied by a very special soundtrack, composed for ZEGNA by the British Artist and Producer James Blake, who is also a very good friend of the house. James worked together with Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori to shape a music capable of creating a symbiotic flow with the motifs and thoughts of the collection, but above all with the creativity of the environment.
In the Oasi of Cashmere, transformation is affirmed as evolution and adaptation, style as effortlessness.
For more information on the collection, visit here.