This holiday season, Chloé looks to its rich archives for a festive 2023 collection. Taking inspiration from an iconic Fall/Winter 1983 Chloé design by the late Karl Lagerfeld, the Maison’s former Creative Director, which sees a rhinestone-studded arrow embroidered across a black jersey dress, the festive collection is animated by a modern twist on the shimmering arrow motif.
Also starring in the capsule are two further symbols associated with the Maison: the embellished guitar, which finds its origins in a Spring/Summer 1983 Lagerfeld dress design for Chloé; and the oversized ribbon bow, which cinched the waists of multiple looks in the Fall 2004 collection designed by Phoebe Philo, and became a house signature during her tenure at Chloé between 2001 and 2006.
Traced in rhinestones and crystals, the arrow motif that once energised Lagerfeld’s jersey dress galvanises the festive collection. Originally reinterpreted on a black column dress for the actor Maude Apatow, Chloé’s guest at the Lagerfeld-themed Met Gala 2023, the embellished arrow now appears across ready-to-wear, bags, shoes and jewellery. Leading the ready-to-wear line-up are two black textured wool-crepe evening dresses, one with a cut-out at the waist, the other with a scoop neck, both embellished with a hand-embroidered bead and rhinestone arrow. They are accompanied by a black single-breasted wool-crepe tuxedo, the jacket fastening comprising a sparkling arrow brooch, and a black wool-crepe shirt with a dramatic arrow plunging down its centre. Extending the all-black line-up, a tailored coat, an A-line mini skirt, a roomy cashmere knit and a sweater dress all feature embellished arrowhead embroidery running down their sides, a nod to the original Lagerfeld design, which took inspiration from the stripes on athletic jackets.
In accessories, the arrow motif appears on limited-edition black leather iterations of the Penelope small top-handle bag, on the Penelope micro flap bag, and on a rectangular clutch bag. Making use of traditional techniques, the embroidered arrow that adorns the bags takes two beading specialists between 15 and 22 hours to create for each piece. Similar arrow-shaped crystal embellishments add a shot of glamour to the feminine Oli line of shoes, with a pump, a T-bar pump and a T-bar sandal featuring the hand-worked motif. The arrow motif also makes its presence felt in jewellery, comprising statement necklaces, shoulder-grazing earrings, rings and a belt. All are hand-embellished with triangle, baguette and rhinestone glass beads, 60% of which are deadstock accrued by Chloé’s jewellery suppliers.
The embellished guitar is the festive collection’s second key motif. The guitar is reimagined in multicoloured, hand-embroidered sequins, rhinestones and beads across several items, most memorably in a black viscose silk velvet mini dress, where the neck of the guitar comprises an asymmetric strap, in a nod to Lagerfeld’s irreverent experiments with trompe l’oeil. Equally eye-catching are a deadstock crepe-cady shirt and a lower-impact cotton T-shirt, both emblazoned with the embellished guitar across the chest.
Bows, the third festive motif, add a touch of romance to the collection. Ballooning velvet bows adorn the sleeves of a wool silk-satin dress, top and trousers, all in black, and appear again in velvet or traced in rhinestones and beads across the Oli sandals, low-heel pump and pointed ballerina flats. Bows also inspire a delicate brass jewellery line, reinterpreted as gold-toned earrings and a ring.
For accessories, key shoe silhouettes are revisited in a subtle metallic silver colourway, including the Nama Sneaker, the Lauren sneaker and the new Marcie ballerina. They’re accompanied by the Penelope micro flap bag and the Marcie chain flap bag, redefined in a limited-edition combination of black leather and silver hardware, or entirely reimagined in metallic silver, alongside the Woody nano tote.
The festive collection will be available in boutiques and on Chloe.com