This week at KHAMSA, we chose to shine a light on Jerusalem, a city at the heart of Palestine’s history and identity. Given the current circumstances of war and displacement, this travel guide is different from our usual ones. It is written in hope that one day it will serve as a true reference when the time comes to walk freely through its streets again and experience its beauty firsthand.
In order to do that, we asked Malak Abu-Qaoud (@malakqaoud on Instagram) to take us back to that city she has been visiting since before she was even born.
On her father’s side, the family comes from Yafa, a Mediterranean haven, while her mother’s lineage traces back to a long line of noble Jerusalemites who resided in the city in 1200 AD, following the call of Salah Eddin Al Ayyoubi after his recapture of Jerusalem from nearly a century of Crusader control.
As she grew up, summers were spent in Jerusalem with grandparents, uncles, aunts, and cousins. With every visit, their bond with the land deepened, nourished by stories of great-grandparents and the cherished family home.
Jerusalem, though heavy with sadness today, remains a deeply spiritual, grounding, and magical city. This guide focuses on East Jerusalem, which is predominantly Arab, as opposed to the western part, where Jewish immigrants settled.
To enter Jerusalem, it’s best to go through the King Hussein Bridge Border Crossing (Allenby Bridge), only an hour drive from Queen Alia International Airport in Amman, Jordan.
In the past, the Old City was bustling with tourists, vendors and locals, especially over the summer, you would have to squeeze through the herds of people walking by. Unfortunately, it currently sits mainly empty due to the ongoing war; many shops are closed due to lack of income, work and tourists.
The entrance of the Old City is called Damascus Gate, or Bab el Amood. This is the main gate and best to be entered through. Old City is divided into four quarters: the Muslim Quarter, the Christian Quarter, the Armenian Quarter and the Jewish Quarter.
Top must-visit food spots / hotels?
The first thing I do when I arrive is go to Abu Shukri for the best Palestinian breakfast, the original Abu Shukri dates back 85 years, and is located in the Christian Quarter with no sign on his store-front. Although there is another (more touristic) Abu Shukri right at the entrance of the Damascus gate (Bab el Amood) in the Old City, trust me ask for Abu Shukri in the Christian Quarter (حارة النصارى).
Best falafel sandwiches from Al Hidmi, right inside Damascus gate, the main entrance of the Old City. Or Falafel Ehab in Wadi el Joz neighborhood.
Abu Sneineh Bakery
Also at the entrance of Damascus gate, for the best Jerusalem kaak (كعك القدس)
Abu-Noon – For fresh-baked manaeesh and pastries.
Al Mufti
Coffee shop for the best Turkish coffee and chat with the coffee shop owner who will tell you tales of his family history.
Notre Dame Hotel
located right outside the Old City! The Notre Dame was built in 1885
as a center and Chapel to host French pilgrims but was reconstructed in 1973. The rooftop restaurant has a terrace which overlooks the Old City’s historic walls and rooftops and has incredible views on the Holy sites. They offer great food & drinks and the energy is amazing. They also have a 360 lookout incase you just want to see the view from the top.
The American Colony Hotel
The American Colony is an iconic hotel which dates back to the ninteeth century. It’s a stunning location with hidden courtyard and gardens for lunch and dinner. Make sure to also check out the Palestinian Heritage Museum and bookshop across the street.
Must-visit spiritual spots?
Jerusalem is one of the most unique and important cities because of its historic, cultural and highly
spiritual significance.
There are 10 doors that lead to Al Aqsa mosque compound from the Old City; inside there are
numerous mosques and praying sites including the Dome of the Rock قبة الصخرة and Al Aqsa
mosque مسجد القبلي, it is important to differenciate between the two. Masjid al Marwani is a hidden
underground mosque also located on the compound.
Friday prayers can get quite busy so best to go early. A beautiful time to visit is for Fajr or Maghreb
(sunrise or sunset prayers), but of course it is just as special any time of the day.
To enter the mosque compound you need to wear prayer clothes so make sure to bring some with
you, (non-Arabs have certain visitation hours so check with your hotel).
Al-Aqsa Mosque
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The Holy Sepluchre is one of the most sacred sites in Jerusalem, it was built in 335 CE and remains today as the holiest pilgrimage destination for Christians. Inside the church there are multiple chapels, shrines and relics from different Christian traditions.
Diwan Abdel Latif
(due to its close proximity to the Damascas gate). In 2020, my mothers family discovered an ancient bathhouse underneath one of their homes in the Old City, it has since been renovated into a family bureau and sometimes local communities run programs with choirs and activities. It is usually closed without an appointment, but if you happen to find the door open feel free to go inside and check it out.
Best places for sundowners/roof-top places?
My favourite rooftop & terrace in the Old City is the Austrian Hospice. It is one of the oldest religious institutions established by Catholic Austria in the Mid-19th Centurty. Today it operates as a hotel, café and cultural center. They have the cutest garden and terrace with a view, great for an afternoon coffee.
Al Hashimi Hotel
The hotel has a hidden rooftop which has 360 views overlooking the Old City and the clearest views on The Dome of the Rock. There is no food served up there so make sure you bring a snack.
Best places for shopping?
Lore Local
Thisis an online shop & platform that sources curated original hand-made pieces from different parts of Palestine. You reach out to her for an in person booking whilst in Jerusalem (or shop online).
Levantine Gallery
A family run commercial gallery in the Christian Quarter. They have a great
selection of accessible Palestinian painting and prints, from artists like Sliman Mansour, Talib Dweik, as well as younger emerging talent.
Souk El Bazar
Souk El Bazar torwards Jaffa Gate (Bab el Khalil) is one of the best streets for shopping, it has a ton of shops!
Hidden Gems?
Al Amad Halaweh
Al Jabarini Sesame Factory
What should you avoid?
Avoid wearing revealing clothes, Jerusalem is a very conservative city so you need to be respectful
to the people and culture. Avoid buying from any shop other than Arab owned places to help
support them.
Any tips and tricks to tackle the city?
Wear comfortable shoes, and if you’re visiting in the summer wear loose and flowy clothes. Take a
pair of socks in your bag for when you visit the moques and put your shoes in a tote bag with you to
avoid loss of shoes on your way out. Take your time discovering the city and don’t hesitate to stop
for a cup of coffee and a chat with the shop owners, it’s the best way to learn about the fabric of the
city and its charming people.
