Puglia, the city of charming whitewashed towns.
Puglia is Italy’s sun-soaked secret, with ancient trulli houses dotting the landscape like relics from another world. Made of several villages that are not always close to each other, the city is untamed, authentic, and unapologetically itself. Down south in Salento, the sea is a shade of blue you can’t quite name, lapping at shores where locals linger, lost in the moment.
This week, KHAMSA touches down in Puglia with a detailed travel guide by Léa Sfeir (@leasfeir on Instagram). Lea is the founder of By LéaSfeir, a brand producing unique tableware pices. She holds Puglia close to her heart, never failing to be mesmerized by its wonders and beauty.
Puglia where history, nature, and culture collide in a way that feels both ancient and somehow just on the brink of discovery. Here, the world slows down, allowing you to take in the beauty that is in the details.
Top must-visit food spots?
“When I am in Puglia, what I love the most are the authentic and cool places where food is at the centre. Going to a fancy place is not what I am usually looking for. I go to fancy places all the year around!”
Bari, the capital of Puglia
The best gelato you’ll try in Puglia is from Gelateria Gentile in front of the Sbawian Castle.
Al Sorso Preferito
You must try the spaghetti “all’assassina” in a very old school restaurant called Al Sorso Preferito – not fancy at all, but original!
Taranto
“I recommend a visit to the old town and the archaeological museum (Marta). The best restaurants for me are….”
Il Farò
Al Canale
For a fancy beach day, Maldives style.
Lega Navale
Best aperitivo, super special.
Lecce
Le Cesine
A natural reserve.
Oo Doppiozero Restaurant
Close to Lecce for a wild moment on the beach inside a wooden cottage, where you can eat super yummy ink octopus pasta.
An hour or so from Lecce.
Ostuni
Bar Riccardo
For aperitivo.
“For flea market of porcelain, ceramic and antics: go to Luca buongiorno located in via Cattedrale.”
– Léa Sfeir
Locorotondo
For a cosy and authentic stay in a trulli village. The restaurant of the hotel is also very good!
Oria
For the live making of and best taste of every mozzarella: buffala, burrata and straciatella followed by an aperitivo full of mozza and good wine!
Matera
“Matera is not located in Puglia, but in Basilicata, although everyone thinks it’s still Puglia! :) Matera is a white city made of caves and protected by the Unesco. It’s a must-visit place!
– Léa Sfeir
Gatta Buia
Best rooftop in Matera.
Best places for shopping?
“For adults, there are some cool concept stores. In Bari, there is Dante 5, Luciana, Mimma Ninni. For kids, there is CoccoleBimbi. For ceramics, you need to go to Grottaglie Village and visit the maestro Nicola Fasano.”
Must-visit cultural spots?
“Again Matera!! And the historical centres of Lecce, Alberobello, Martina Franca, Ostuni, Locorotondo and Taranto.
– Léa Sfeir
Best boutique hotels to stay in?
Masseria Fontana di Vita
A mix of authenticity, contemporary art and antic pieces. So beautiful and peaceful! It’s my heaven.
Masseria Torre Coccaro
For a luxurious stay, I love to go to Masseria Torre Coccaro in Ostuni! Gorgeous and their dining area is so romantic.
Underrated places?
Oria village and Taranto (known for being polluted, but it is so pretty!)
– Léa Sfeir
What should you avoid?
“Staying in Alberobello because it’s too touristic, although it is absolutely charming to visit.”
Must-pack items?
“Swimming suits, swimming suits, sunglasses and light dresses. It’s quite hot! Dior Solar range of skincare is forever my favourite.
“Puglia is authentic, but also very glamorous. Pack light, but don’t forget the touch of glam!”
– Léa Sfeir
Any tips and tricks to tackle the city?
“Don’t stick to one village. It is so nice if you can go from one village to another one every three days and enjoy the diversity of nature, the different beaches, restaurants and charm of the region.”
